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Catering for everyone (December 2009)

I love watching food
programmes on TV and thumbing through foodie magazines.
It is particularly fun at Christmas time when there are
so many delightful foods on offer and the perfect excuse
to make them. I find myself thinking I'd like to make
this or give that a go and then I have to rein in my
enthusiasm as I remember what Christmas is really like
and how I have to cater for everyone's needs. And what a
mix of needs I have to cater for.
Firstly, there is the
minor issue of my dairy intolerance. I say minor because
I can have some dairy and also because there is such a
huge range of non-dairy alternatives on the market that
it is barely a problem... apart from cheese, which I
love and for which there is no decent alternative. I do
find myself squirming uncomfortably about half way
through a Delia recipe, when just as I was thinking it
was going to be nice she tips half a pint of cream into
the dish!
My girls have their own
finicky likes and dislikes. My youngest would be quite
happy with a plate of vegetables at Christmas and is
very enthusiastic about Brussel sprouts. My eldest has a
more restricted range of favourites when it comes to
fruit and vegetables but will eat raw carrots and frozen
peas (still frozen). But this is easy to arrange as long
as I remember to leave a portion of carrots uncooked.
Then there is my
mother-in-law who, when once faced with 150 flavours of
ice-cream, chose vanilla. She likes her food
traditional, simple and bland. No spice, no garlic and
nothing with mayonnaise. She also lifts the salt pot
before her fork! And while I'm on the in-laws, there is
my sister-in-law who is diabetic so can't have too much
sugar. She also happens to not care for potatoes. No,
I'm not making this up!
But all this pales into
insignificance when my step-daughter arrives, for she is
a vegan. On the surface of it Christmas and veganism
seem completely incompatible with the central bird, the
sausagemeat and the streaky bacon. Then there are the
puddings, pies and cakes containing butter, eggs and
drowned in custard and cream. Actually, it is worse then
you might imagine. I remember the first Christmas after
her conversion when her puzzled gran asked her whether
she could eat things like oranges. Of course she can, I
thought to myself only to hear her reply "It depends
whether they have a coating of beeswax on them." Oh,
that put me in my place... better whip the orange out of
the stocking then! But I'm not one to panic and with
some thought and preparation it is no bigger an
inconvenience than anyone else's needs.
I saved the walnuts
harvested from the autumn for my step-daughter's
Christmas main dish - Mushroom and walnut rolls. These
can be made well in advance, frozen raw and cooked from
frozen on the day - as easy as cooking sausage rolls.
Surprisingly, because readymade puff pastry is made with
vegetable oil it is vegan-friendly, as long as you avoid
the "all butter" ones of course. I serve the rolls with
the same vegetables as everyone else, potatoes roasted
in a separate dish (in sunflower oil rather than goose
fat), sage and onion stuffing and gravy made using a
vegetable stock cube. I have to say that when served it
looks like a decent meal rather than a poor vegetarian
option after thought. It must be OK because she has had
this dish for 4 Christmas's in a row and takes home the
uncooked spare ones.
Mushroom and Walnut
Rolls (makes 12)
| 1 small onion
or shallot |
| 1 cloves of
garlic (optional) |
| 2 oz (55g)
mushrooms |
| 1/2 oz (15g)
walnut pieces |
| A little oil
|
| 1/2 oz
wholemeal breadcrumbs |
| 1 dessert spoon
cornflour, mixed with water |
| A little fresh
parsley, finely chopped |
| Salt & pepper |
| 8 oz (225g)
fresh puff pastry |
Place the onion, garlic
(if using), mushroom and walnuts in the food processor
and blitz. Heat the oil in a frying plan and gently cook
this mixture for about five minutes until soft. Tip the
mixture into a bowl and mix in the breadcrumbs, parsley,
seasoning and cornflour. Roll out the pastry into a
rectangle and cut into two long strips. Place the
filling along the strips and brush the edge of the
pastry with soya milk before rolling the pastry over the
filling. Glaze with more soya milk then cut into
suitable lengths. Freeze. Cook on a baking tray at
220°C, gas 7 for 10 minutes from thawed or 25 minutes
from frozen.
With
the main meal sorted I spent today organising the
desserts. I started with raspberry trifle - not in the
least bit vegan or diabetic but just plain yummy! This I
made with 8 oz of raspberries from the freezer following
my usual trifle recipe.
Next I set about making
mince pies. I already had 3 different flavours of
mincemeat in my cupboard, made as the fruit was
available - plum and orange mincemeat made in August,
apple and cider mincemeat made in September, and figgy
pear mincemeat made in November. So my daughter and I
made 12 pies, 4 each of each flavour, adding a different
shaped piece of pastry on top of each pie to indicate
the flavour. As it happens by using Trex as the fat in
the pastry and soya milk to glaze these are vegan too,
not that that matters as my step-daughter to top it all
doesn't like raisins! Still, the apple and cider
mincepies are suitable for diabetics if the sugar is
left out of the pastry.
Figgy Pear Mincemeat
My personal favourite
and something you can’t buy in the shops so even if
everyone has already eaten lots of mince pies this
Christmas they will enjoy these for their different
flavour.
Makes 4-5 jars
| 1½ to 2 lb (680
– 900g) pears |
| 2 lb 4 oz (1
kg) mixed dried fruit |
| 9 oz (250g)
dried figs |
| 1 lb (454g)
Demerara sugar |
| 1 lemon, zest
and juice |
| 2 teaspoons
mixed spice |
| 1 teaspoon
ground ginger |
| 1 teaspoon
ground cinnamon |
| ½
teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg |
| 5 fl oz (150ml)
sherry |
Put the mixed fruit in a
non-metallic bowl, grate in the pear and use scissors to
snip in the figs. Add the remaining ingredients, stir
well, cover and leave overnight. Heat in a preserving
pan until boiling then simmer for 10 minutes. Transfer
into warmed jars and seal immediately.
Plum & Orange Mincemeat
Makes 5 jars
| 3 lb (1350g)
plums |
| 2 large oranges |
| 8 oz (225g)
sultanas |
| 8 oz (225g)
raisins |
| 1 teaspoon
cinnamon |
| 1 teaspoon
mixed spice |
| 1½ lb (680g)
granulated sugar |
| 2 tablespoons
brandy |
Wash, stone and finely
chop the plums and place in a non-metallic bowl. Grate
the rind off the oranges then peel the orange and chop
the flesh. Add the dried fruit, spices, sugar and brandy
to the bowl. Stir well, cover and refrigerate overnight.
Tip the mix into a preserving pan and heat gently,
stirring to dissolve the sugar. Bring to the boil and
simmer for about half an hour until thick. Pour into
warmed jars and seal.
Apple & Cider Mincemeat
| 2 lb (900g)
mixed dried fruit |
| 1 lb (454g)
apples |
| 2 teaspoons
ground mixed spice |
| 1 pint (660ml)
cider |
| 2 tablespoons
brandy |
Peel and grate the
apples and place them in a preserving pan with the mixed
dried fruit. Add the spice and cider and cook for 10
minutes until the apple is soft and the liquid has
evaporated. Stir in the brandy and pack into warmed jars
and seal immediately.
For the Mince pies:
| 7 oz (200g) of
plain flour |
| 1 oz (25g)
wholemeal flour (or a total of 8 oz, 225g plain
flour) |
| 4 oz (110g)
margarine or butter |
| 2 oz (55g)
caster sugar (adjust this quantity according to
taste preference) |
| Water |
| A little milk |
To make the pastry, sift
the flour into a bowl and add the margarine (or butter).
Rub the two together until it looks and feels like
breadcrumbs. Add the sugar and mix in. Add a little bit
of cold water at a time and start to bind the pastry.
The pastry should form a ball that is not too sticky or
likely to crack. Wrap in Clingfilm and refrigerate for
about half an hour.
Preheat an oven to 220°C
(gas 7). Roll out the pastry on a floured surface until
about 5 mm thick. Use two pastry cutters to cut out
bases and lids to fit your tin/cases. Place the base
pieces in the tin/case then fill three quarters full
with mincemeat (do not overfill or it will leak out when
cooking). Use a pastry brush to brush milk around the
rim of the base then press the lid on top. Make air
holes in the lid then glaze with milk. Bake in the oven
for 15 to 20 minutes until golden. Allow to cool for 5
minutes in the tin then transfer onto a cooling rack to
cool completely.
After
all that my daughter was still keen to keep on baking so
we made some gingerbread stars, also vegan with the use
of vegan margarine, and a vegan chocolate log, using
vinegar instead of egg. Then after a break for lunch we
made popcorn. Believe it or not we grew the popcorn too!
And what's more it was pink! I have grown a variety of
sweetcorn for a few years now with the intention of
making popcorn. It is a variety called "Strawberry" and
it grows large, strawberry shaped cobs of hard red
kernels. It is a bit tedious pushing the kernels from
the cob but once done it can be popped like any other
pop corn. It is nice, however, that once popped it
retains some of its red colour. Once again, totally
vegan and diabetic friendly.
I wrapped a gingerbread
star and some popcorn in cellophane bags, tied them with
some red and silver curling ribbon and popped them into
her stocking. Better than an orange any day.
A final job was to put
the remaining walnuts in a star shaped container that I
saved from last year, along with some other nuts and
dried fruits. Surely everyone should find something they
like in there.
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