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This review was undertaken on
Saturday, May 1, 2010
When any
establishment changes their menu, albeit to reflect the seasons,
there is understandably a sense of excitement; but in the case
of The Swan, Salford, possibly some nerves too. Why? Because not
only is it a new menu, the Head Chef Mark Godbehear is new too.
To top it all off, there is also a relatively new management
team in place.
Mark may
already have a wealth of experience at both The Swan and her
sister pub The Black Horse in Woburn, but now in charge for the
first time, this is his chance to shine and make his mark on one
of the most successful pubs in the area.
It is almost a
sin to confess that it has been a while since my partner and I
visited The Swan. We had somehow forgotten what an amazingly
beautiful and stylish place this is to eat great food. We
enjoyed a quick drink at the bar – ‘quick’, because we were
desperate to get started and sample some of the exciting dishes
on offer.
We took our
seats in cute looking, high-quality leather armchairs. We sat
down and were immediately so comfortable, we looked at each
other with a smile and wondered if we would ever want to leave!
The ‘Specials’
were clearly created and written with love, as there are 3
kisses at the bottom of a long list of delicious sounding
dishes. Some of these, including my partner’s choice of the Pan
Fried John Dory, pea and mint risotto (£14) were proving hugely
popular.
I started with
the Risotto of Confit Mushrooms and Wild Garlic with bacon
(£6.50). You can choose this dish with or without bacon but
you’d be mad not to opt for the bacon as it gives this amazing
starter an extra dimension. Surprising for The Swan, they
neglected to state that the risotto will also arrive with
parmesan shavings on top. For non-cheese lovers, this could
prove a disaster but I certainly wasn’t complaining and I’ll be
returning soon to order this as a main course because I simply
couldn’t get enough!
This risotto
packed a punch with amazing flavours that came together as one.
The risotto was excellently prepared and had a lovely moist
texture without being watery. My only small gripe was that it
was served in a deep soup bowl that made it difficult for me to
eat the last remaining mouthfuls and I had nowhere to put my
fork once I had finished my meal (it couldn’t be placed in the
bowl).
If my starter
was to score maximum points, then my partner’s had to do the
same but with an “+” because it would surely be difficult to
prepare this dish any better? The Warm Ham Hock, Sun Blushed
Tomatoes and Watercress, Balsamic Reduction (£6) might have
sounded a relatively simple dish, but it was outstanding in its
presentation, quality of produce, flavours and preparation.
Almost duck like in texture, the meat was incredibly tasty and
with all the ingredients combining so well I had to ask how I
could possibly have menu envy after tasting my own incredible
starter?
For mains, I
opted for the Cumin and Yoghurt Lamb Kleftiko, Sag Aloo, Crème
Fraiche (£14). This arrived looking slightly dry but appearances
can be deceptive. The lamb was excellent and fell off the bone
with consummate ease. There was plenty of it too and I struggled
to finish this course. Rather than just boiled new potatoes the
kitchen opted for Sag Aloo with the lamb. This was very cleverly
done as spicy potatoes could easily have overpowered the lamb
but these were a subtle accompaniment that worked surprisingly
well.
 I
had teased my partner and asked her how she could eat the John
Dory as her main course. Why? Well, I once showed her a picture
of this variety of deep sea fish which is growing in popularity
with diners. This particular image showed a gorgeous, colourful
fish with a large spot on it’s side (which is used to fool it’s
prey). The John Dory looked sad (their downward slanting mouth
does not do them any favours) so I asked “How could you? They’re
so pretty!” before following quickly with “Save me some!”
We had both
agreed that this was a “posh” dish. Fish and mushy peas has long
been a classic combination but here, with a delightful pea and
mint risotto, Mark and his team had created their very own
classic which would surely be on the main course every day if a
fresh supply of John Dory could be guaranteed. This dish had
sold out long before last orders were taken. John Dory is
popular because when well cooked, it possesses amazing flavours
that linger and leave you itching for more.
As my partner
was enjoying this dish she commented, “This place is so
charming! Look at this” and explained how an already relaxed and
buzzing atmosphere was enhanced as the sun set on the restaurant
and the candles on the tables glowed all the more brightly.
“What about the fish?” I asked as I was more interested in
tasting this dish. For someone who could not stop ordering John
Dory wherever it is on the menu, my partner would surely be a
good judge? The response was that the John Dory was cooked to
perfection, and there was “lots of it.” This was described as a
tasty, light and clean tasting dish and she simply loved every
mouthful.
Could we
possibly find room for dessert? When food is this nice, it seems
a shame not to! After a short break I ordered a variety of
Maynards of Biggleswade ice cream and sorbet – chocolate,
vanilla and honeycomb ice cream and a mango sorbet. I had always
rated Movenpick’s Swiss ice cream as one of the best ice creams
available that is produced by a manufacturer. This variety beat
it hands down and they were amazingly creamy. I don’t think I
need to say anymore!
To my surprise
my partner chose to finish with the Pear and Caramel Tart Tatin,
Vanilla Ice Cream (£5). She normally hates pastry but soon
tucked into this excellent sweet. The pear was so thinly cut
that it seemed to lack any real flavour but that did little to
detract from the fact that every course and every mouthful of
our food had been extremely well received.
If you look at
The Swan’s new menu and have visited the pub before, then it
will be quite easy to guess there is a new Head Chef. The
differences in dishes available compared to this time last year
is more than subtle and not only has Mr Godbehear given diners
something different, he has raised the standard of food and it’s
presentation. Remember this is The Swan, Salford we are talking
about, and raising standards at this pub is no easy task.
The staff were
incredibly attentive throughout our stay and we watched them
closely as they tended to other tables. Sometimes it’s the
simple things that impress. For example, rather than one waiter
tending to a table of four all the time; when required, they
will be supported by another waiter when serving food, ensuring
all dishes for all diners arrive at the same time. You’ll be
surprised how many restaurants we have visited that cannot carry
out this simple task!
In conclusion,
The Swan surpassed our already high expectations in all
departments. Our night was full of surprises and wonderful food. |
